Even if all roads do lead to Rome, not all lead to the best restaurants. In fact, rivers of visitors mean that you have to be careful when choosing your restaurant, if you don't want to eat in a tourist trap. Rome is currently enjoying a food renaissance, which makes eating in the city as exciting as it is delicious.

La Gensola

La Gensola has had a long history; it first opened as a simple osteria at the end of the 19th-century, and has changed hands over the years. Since chef Claudio Dordei and his wife Irene took it over several years ago, La Gensola has never been better. It is one of the best places to eat the freshest seafood in Rome. Sit down at 8.30am, and by 8.45 you’ll be dining on this morning's catch, such as scallops drizzled with aged balsamic, and pasta tossed with chunks of fresh tuna and pine nuts. Dishes include such hard-to-find and artisanal ingredients as saba from Emilia Romagna, collatura from Campania, and small white beans from the hills of Lazio. You can have a look at the menu, but Irene will let you know the catch of the day, and what they can do with it. The best thing is to order a few antipasti, some cooked, some raw, while you decide what your main course may be.

Glass Hostaria

Glass is a rare breed: a truly great restaurant located in hyper-touristy Trastevere. The restaurant opened in 2005, but it wasn’t until American chef Cristina Bowerman came onboard a year later that things really took off. Bowerman’s menu takes off in directions having nothing at all to do with Rome. Try the hibiscus tea classic lamb, with spiced cherries and asparagus, or the more typical Italian risotto with mantis shrimp, apple and tarragon. The interior of Glass, which features steel and glass, gets almost as much attention as the menu. Although modern and edgy, the vibe is warm and relaxed – as much to do with the sensitive lighting as the young, helpful, and unpretentious staff.

Al Moro

This is the one old-school institution that most people know. Located a coin’s throw from the Trevi Fountain, Al Moro is a likely spot for bumping into politicians or captains of industry taking very long lunches. What are they lounging over? Vignarola (a stew of fava beans, peas, and artichokes), osso bucco, and pasta all’arrabbiata. A favourite is the classic veal with artichokes: tender slices of veal with a slightly lemony sauce. The traditional menu changes to reflect the seasons, but the slightly grumpy waiters won’t tell you anything about the dishes unless you ask. Do. It’s worth it.