24 hours in SHANGHAI

Written by Christopher St. Cavish Illustration by Fernando Volken Togni | Added: 23.02.2010, 11:52

In the 20s and 30s, Shanghai was the Pearl of the Orient, a city of wealth, decadence, and outrageous nightlife. Its citizens were as international as its reputation, but the rise of Communism following the end of World War II put an end to all that.  For the second half of the century, Shanghai lay dormant.

In the 90s, the central government  began rehabilitating Shanghai, rapidly transforming it from slumbering city to financial capital. A forest of skyscrapers now squares off with the imposing colonial faзades of the Bund, Shanghai’s historic waterfront. The legendary nightlife has returned in force, and in myriad forms; in 2009, a one-time Shinto shrine reopened as a burlesque club.

The city invested US$45 billion to overhaul its infrastructure, ahead of hosting the 2010 World Expo. May to October will see an estimated 70 million tourists flock to Shanghai to take part, and the city has been busily adding subway lines, sprucing up buildings, and polishing tourist sites. Add to that a raft of technological and architectural superlatives, and China’s  best shopping and dining, and you have China’s most modern and exciting city.

02.00
Outrageous in both its energy and Wild Western saloon decor, which glows under a rainbow of neon lights, club No 88 (291 Fumin Lu) is a Shanghai sensation, the epitome of its raucous nightlife.

07.00
China rises early. Head to Fuxing Gongyuan (Park), built by the colonial French, where graceful seniors start the day by practising tai chi, stretching and gossiping among the rose-filled gardens.

09.00
Ascend the newly built Shanghai World Financial Center for a bird’s eye view. At 474m, the 100th floor Skywalk observation deck is the world’s highest, and visibility is best  in the morning.

11.00
Meander the tree-lined streets  of the former French Concession. Peruse the curated selection of fine teas at Song Fang Maison de The (227 Xiangyang Lu),  a boutique teashop and salon.

12.00
Visit Xintiandi, an area of renovated, traditional Shanghai lane houses turned into a shopping, dining, and nightlife district. Drop in to Crystal Jade for a lunch of spectacular Cantonese cooking.

14.00
Yu Garden, a traditional Chinese garden of rocks, ponds, and bridges, is in Shanghai’s Old City. Cut through the surrounding bazaar, and across the Bridge of Nine Turns, to its entrance.

16.00
Cab it to Moganshan Lu, ground zero for Shanghai’s contemporary art scene. Explore the warehouse studios and galleries clustered around  No 50, or visit m97  (97 Moganshan Lu) for fine-art photography.

18.00
Walk east from People’s Square on Nanjing Dong Lu. The pedestrian-only street, packed with neon,  old Chinese brands, historical buildings, and gawping provincial tourists,  ends at the Bund.

19.30
The fiery cuisine  of Sichuan province meets Shanghai sophistication at the swank South Beauty. Two locations offer distinct surroundings: modern dйcor (28-1 Taojiang Lu) or garden villa (881 Yan’an Lu).

22.00
Take in a jazz show at the JZ Club (46 Fuxing Lu), in a happening former French Concession neighbourhood, south of the famed Jing An Temple, or The House of Blues and Jazz (60 Fuzhou Lu).

Getting Around

car

An international license is not enough. You need to get a Chinese permit, and a short exam (quite easy). Leave the driving to the taxis.

train

The subway system is efficient, comprehensive – and mostly brand-new. Stations are marked in English, and single-way fares are 3-6 RMB.

bus

While extensive, the ‘language’ of Shanghai’s bus system is almost entirely Chinese. Forget it. Taxis and the subway are easier to navigate.

walk

The streets of the former French Concession are pleasant to stroll; the narrow lanes around People’s Square are hectic but interesting. Otherwise, cab it.

City Profile

Where none existed just 15 years ago, an extensive subway system now  criss-crosses Shanghai. A high-speed magnetic levitation train whips passengers from Pudong Airport to an outlying subway station at speeds of up to 430kph. Still, for tourists, taxis are king. With 150 companies operating some 45,000 taxis in myriad colours, they are plentiful and cheap, and should be used with abandon. One catch: drivers don’t speak English. Always keep your hotel’s business card on hand, and ask the concierge to write your destination in Chinese. Traffic is chaotic and taxi fares start at just 14 RMB (16 RMB from 11pm-5am).

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