fine food - Peter Gilmore
Written by Oryx
Peter Gilmore describes his cuisine as “food inspired by nature” and is renowned for beautifully structured food with innate simplicity.
Born and bred in Sydney, Australia, Peter is executive chef at two of the city’s most exciting dining experiences: Bennelong at the Sydney Opera House and Quay Restaurant across the harbour at Circular Quay.
As a passionate gardener, he was one of the first chefs in Australia to embrace heirloom varieties of vegetables, and he works in partnership with small and artisan producers who cultivate bespoke produce exclusively for both Quay and Bennelong. His appreciation of nature’s diversity and his endless experimentation in his own garden are driving forces in his cooking.
During his time at Quay, the restaurant has been listed in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants five times and in 2015 was placed 58th in the World’s 100 Best Restaurants.
This heirloom organic green rice is one of our favourite vegetarian dishes.
Serves 8 (and you will have nage and consommé left over for the next time).
- 5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 5 small spring onions, finely chopped
- 500g Korean heirloom organic green rice*
- 900ml vegetable nage
Sweat garlic and spring onions in oil. Add rice and coat in oil like a risotto. Add hot nage, bring to boil, cover with a lid. Cook for 25 minutes on a very low heat.
- 2 onions
- 2 celery sticks
- 1 bulb fennel
- 1 carrot
- 3 bay leaves
- 1 bunch thyme
- 3l water
Combine all finely chopped ingredients with water and bring to boil. Simmer for 1 hour; leave to cool for 1 hour; then take what you need and freeze the rest for the next time you make this dish.
Soy and sesame dressing
- 100ml 10-year-old aged soy sauce
- 110ml black sesame oil
Buy a nice piece of silken tofu from a reputable supplier, to serve warm in a little mushroom and wakame consommé.
- 100g vegetable nage
- 50g good butter
- 1 Chinese cabbage
- 250g mountain spinach
Make an emulsion by boiling your nage and whisking in the butter till a creamy consistency. Wash and prep the cabbage into small pieces and wash the mountain spinach well.
Mushroom and wakame consommé
- 750g shallots
- 50g garlic
- 400g carrots
- 250g celery sticks
- 1l sake
- 500g dried chestnut mushrooms
- 14l filtered water
- 150g dried wakame (soak in 4l hot water)
- 4 star anise
- 100ml sesame oil
- 100ml grapeseed oil
Caramelise the finely chopped vegetables and garlic in sesame and grapeseed oil. Deglaze with sake and reduce to compote. Add mushrooms and water, simmer for two hours. Add soaked wakame and bring back to the boil. Cover and infuse overnight with the star anise, then strain. To clarify your stock, make a raft.
- 16 egg whites
- 5 spring onions, pale parts only
Blitz together egg whites and spring onions in a food processor. Whisk into chilled consommé and gently bring this to a simmer, about 82?C. Once clarified, leave for half an hour, then pass through muslin. Reduce it a little if you feel it needs it. Season accordingly.
Green leaf crispies
- 1 bunch young cavolo nero
- 250g baby spinach
- Laver (rock seaweed)*
Blanch and refresh your cavolo nero and spinach, then lay out on trays to dry. Fry this to order till crisp. Mix the three leaves together and keep warm.
Fry your precooked rice in a little grapeseed oil till golden. Dress with the soy and sesame dressing, being careful not to use too much as this will make your rice salty. Warm your tofu and place it in the bottom of your bowl, add the rice, Chinese cabbage and mountain spinach, and finish with the green leaf crispies. Enjoy.
*The green rice and laver are sourced via Paul Lee and his company Table 181 in Melbourne.