fine food - Yannick Alléno

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Multi-Michelin-starred Chef Yannick Alléno advocates a French cuisine that honours its heritage but is also ambitious in its creativity. His visionary approach to the culinary arts pushes boundaries, to offer experiences of new flavours and exalt tastes.

 

As chef at Alléno Paris – Pavillon Ledoyen, a historic mansion on the Champs-Élysées, he puts a new spin on haute cuisine, for example amplifying jus and sauces through clever Extractions®. He also directs the kitchens of Cheval Blanc in Courchevel and the Royal Mansour in Marrakech, as well as promoting his French ‘art de vivre’ in Dubai, Beijing, and Taipei.

 

Elected Chef of the Year 2015 by the Gault&Millau guide, he was also awarded three Michelin stars in February 2015 for his work at Alléno Paris.

 

Alléno produces a cooking bimonthly for professionals, YAM; and with the publication of his latest book, Sauces: Reflections of a Chef, he pays homage to his predecessors whilst laying the foundation of a modern cuisine.
yannick-alleno.com

 

Hot sea urchin soup served in a burned grapefruit shell.
Crispy duck skin with foie gras, and iodized granita


(Serves 4)

 

Sea urchin consommé

  • 250g sea urchin tongues
  • 1 calf’s foot
  • 25g onions
  • 25g carrots
  • 25g celery
  • 75g cooked duck foie gras
  • Chicken stock
  • Organic grapefruit juice
  • White stock
  • Salt, freshly ground pepper
 

Method

Open the sea urchins and recover 250g of sea urchin tongues. Set the shells aside for assembly. Roast the calf ’s foot, split in two, in the oven at 220°C for 25 minutes. Cut the aromatic garnish – onions, carrots, and celery – en paysanne (cut lengthways then into small triangles). Sweat in the foie gras. Add the calf’s foot and sea urchin tongues. Sweat gently. Deglaze with chicken stock, reduce to dry and deglaze with the grapefruit juice. Add white stock to just cover the ingredients, cook over low heat for 2.5 hours. Skim. Strain, leave to rest, then degrease when cold.

 

Foie gras terrine

  • 1,500g lobe of raw duck foie gras
  • 500g cooked duck foie gras
  • Salt, freshly ground pepper
 

Method

Place a half-lobe of raw foie gras in a terrine. Season. Add the cooked foie gras. Cover with the other half-lobe of foie gras. Cook in the oven at 63°C for one hour. Stop cooking when the foie gras reaches a core temperature of 54°C.

 

Grapefruit granita

  • 4 grapefruits
  • Xanthan gum
  • Salt
 

Method

Squeeze the grapefruit. Add the salt and xanthan gum to the juice. Place in the freezer.

 

Duck skin

Duck leg and thighs
 

Method

Recover the skin from the duck thighs. Remove fat before placing between two baking sheets. Cook in the oven at 180°C for 30 minutes. Cut into circle shapes.

 

Sea urchin tongues in sugar

  • 50g sea urchin tongues
  • Caster sugar
 

Method

Dip the sea urchin tongues in the sugar. Place in a dehydrator for 30 minutes.

 

Grapefruit shells

  • 4 grapefruits
 

Method

Cook the grapefruit on an oven rack at 250°C for 30 minutes. Cut off the top and hollow out. Set aside 40g of burned grapefruit flesh for the mayonnaise. Leave to dry out for making burned grapefruit bowls.

 

Grapefruit mayonnaise

  • 100g reduced fish stock
  • 40g grapeseed oil
  • 20g organic grapefruit juice
  • 40g burned grapefruit flesh
 

Method

Reduce the fish stock to a glaze. Whisk with the grapeseed oil. Add the grapefruit juice and the burned grapefruit flesh that had been set aside.

 

Finish and assembly

  • 2 egg whites
  • 50g sea urchin tongues
  • Olive oil
  • Fleur de sel
 

Method

Wash and dry the sea urchin shells that had been set aside. Mix, then add the egg whites. Mould in a small plate and cook in the oven at 130°C for one hour. Measure 50g of sea urchin consommé per portion and add 7g of sea urchin tongues. Blend and alter seasoning. Pour the sea urchin soup into each shell. In an iced bowl, arrange six sea urchin tongues, then three sea urchin tongues in sugar. Add a few grains of fleur de sel and a dash of olive oil. Place a disc of duck skin on a sauce spoon. On top, add a quenelle of foie gras and a touch of mayonnaise. 

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